First climbers: | E. Castiglioni, E. Battisti - 05.08.1934 |
Length: | 350 |
Evaluation: | Popular route, on good rock, ideal on days with uncertain weather, because of its proximity to the refuge and easy access. Both Cima di Roda and the nearby Cima delle Scarpe offer short, exciting routes on excellent rock with difficulties between grade V and III.
Advice and information is always available at the Rosetta hut. |
Difficulty: | IV/IV- |
Rock: | Discreet |
Exposure: | SW |
Ascent time: | 3 hours |
Descent time: | 20 min. to the Rifugio Rosetta |
Description: | From the Rosetta hut, descend along path 702 until you find traces of the trail leading to the left below the edge of the Roda peak. First, climb along a chimney until you reach a small saddle from which you can admire the north face of the Pala di S. Martino. Here you are directly on the vertical edge and ascent to the right of it for about 150 m. Climb along the edge of the ridge until you reach a gully (canal) that leads to a convenient ledge overlooked by a vertical chimney. Climb it entirely until you reach some beautiful slabs that can be climbed without a fixed route and which lead to the base of an overhanging ledge in the middle of two gullies. Follow the chimney on the right up to a large niche from where you reach the summit over easy rocks. From the summit, an easy trail leads to Rifugio Rosetta in 20 minutes. |
Sector: | Cima di Roda |
Approach: | 40 min. |
First climbers: | A. Crescini, B. Zagonel, A. Tavernaro |
Length: | 400 |
Evaluation: | A beautiful, traditional route on fairly good rock. An ideal tour on days with uncertain weather, as long as there is no fog, as then it could be difficult to find the entry. |
Difficulty: | III° /IV IV+ |
Rock: | Good |
Exposure: | South |
Ascent time: | 3 hours |
Descent time: | 20 min. to the Rifugio Rosetta |
Description: | From the Rifugio Rosetta, follow a scree slope until you reach a rocky peak that forms a small alpine notch (visible from the hut), then continue going up and down, around the wall, until you reach the south side. Continue until you reach an obstruction formed by a slab at the end of which a small gap is visible. A little to the left you can see the large chimney that leads to the summit. Enter the chimney and climb about 2 pitches until you pass a small bottleneck. Then continue for another 2 pitches through the crevice, which gradually becomes a gully and leads to the summit of Cima Rosetta (the belays are partially secured). |
Sector: | Cima Rosetta |
Approach: | 30 min. |
First climbers: | E. Merlet, G. Langes - 24.07.1920 |
Length: | 600 |
Evaluation: | A very beautiful route that is challenging despite the low level of difficulty. An early start in the morning is recommended. |
Difficulty: | III° some passages IV° |
Rock: | Good |
Exposure: | SW |
Ascent time: | 45 min. |
Descent time: | 3 hours |
Description: | From the Rosetta hut, take path 702 towards the Passo di Ball and reach the wide, often snow-covered scree slope that separates the Immink peak from the Pala di S. Martino. Climb along the gully for about 80 m, until it narrows and leave it on the left towards a niche. From here, go diagonally right for a few metres and continue along comfortable rocks to a ledge. Lean left and climb up a chimney for about 20 metres, then turn right to a gravelly hollow that you pass on the way up. Then climb up a chimney on the right and cross it over a slight ledge on the left to reach another vertical chimney leading to a small notch at the edge of the pillar.
From here you can see a chimney, which you climb first on its right side and then continue along its junction to the left until you reach a small ledge. Cross over simple rocks to the left (20 m) and continue climbing diagonally to the left until you reach a ledge. From here, over very nice rocks (slabs), in about 3 pitches you reach the start of a cracked wall, which you follow for 15 m to a small terrace on the left. Climb vertically for a few metres and then turn left into a gravel hollow. On the left, through a chimney, you reach the top of the Gran Pilastro. Passing to the left, you reach a short notch that leads up to the summit. |
Sector: | Pala di San Martino |
Approach: | 1 hour |
First climbers: | G. Franceschini, B. Ferrario - 1958 |
Length: | 180 |
Evaluation: | Nice route on good rock, excellent for the initial approach to climbing. |
Difficulty: | IV/IV+ |
Rock: | Excellent |
Exposure: | NE |
Ascent time: | 2 hours |
Descent time: | 50 min. to the Passo Bettega |
Description: | From the Bettega pass descend along path no. 716 and go around the Croda Paola towards the northeast face. There is a large cairn at the starting point. Climb up the small wall with black lines and aim for a niche about one pitch above the entry ledge. Pass the alcove on the left and, after passing two small pillars, reach the base of a 100 m-long dihedral vertically, which can be climbed on the left or inside. The dihedral ends at the summit. The descent to Passo Bettega is on path tracks marked with cairns. |
Sector: | Cima Croda Paola |
Approach: | 1 hour |
First climbers: | Q. Scalet, G. Gaio, E. Boi - 30.08.1958 |
Length: | 300 |
Evaluation: | Very nice and popular route on excellent rock. |
Difficulty: | IV/V |
Rock: | Good |
Exposure: | South |
Ascent time: | 3,5 hours |
Descent time: | 1 hour 20 min. to the Rifugio Rosetta |
Description: | Beautiful and enjoyable climbing route on good rock. From the Rosetta hut you reach the Val dei Cantoni via the Bettega Pass on path 716, which you climb up to an altitude of about 2700 m, to the mouth of the deep gully that descends to the right of the ledge. Climb over slight rocks leading about 40 m below a niche. You cross a few metres to the right and continue a little further until you reach a small platform. Climb for about 150 m along the centre of the ledge, until you reach a dihedral of about 15 m, which you climb up on excellent rock until you reach a comfortable terrace. Over easy rocks you soon reach the summit. From here, in the direction of Cima Vezzana, you reach path 716, which leads back to Valle dei Cantoni. |
Sector: | Cima Vezzana - corner south/east |
Approach: | 1 hour 20 min. to the Rifugio Rosetta |